Artificial grass installation depends almost entirely on what lies underneath it. The infill that sits on top of the turf, the base materials below it, the drainage path the water takes, and the care taken at seams and edges determine whether your installation will look good, perform well, and last. This guide walks through each of those layers, explains what happens when any one of them is overlooked, and shows you what to ask for in writing before work begins. It is written for Jacksonville homeowners, renters and property managers who want to understand the difference between a turf installation that will serve you for years and one that will disappoint you within months.
Jacksonville's flat sandy soil and high water table mean drainage is not optional. Puddles that sit after summer thunderstorms, yards that turn to mud under a dog's paws, and seams that lift or odors that linger are almost always the result of poor base preparation or inadequate drainage design. This guide covers the conditions you will encounter on the Southside, Mandarin, Arlington, Riverside and the beaches, and the specifications that protect you regardless of where your home sits.
Turf Infill Options: Silica, Coated Sand, Zeolite and Envirofill
Infill is the material that sits on top of the artificial grass fibres. It serves four purposes: it props the fibres upright so they look full and natural, it protects the backing from ultraviolet light, it adds weight to anchor the turf, and it participates in drainage. The most common infill is silica sand, a basic ballast that is inexpensive and effective. Silica comes in various grain sizes, and finer grades feel softer underfoot. Coated sand is silica that has been rounded and often tinted to match the turf colour or to provide a more natural appearance. The rounding makes it gentler on the face of the turf and reduces the wear that sharp particles can cause over time.
Zeolite is a porous mineral that is often blended with sand, particularly in pet turf installations, because it has a natural ability to absorb and neutralize odors. It does not eliminate odor on its own, but it reduces the ammonia smell that develops in areas where dogs urinate frequently. Antimicrobial and cooling infills, such as Envirofill, are coated sand products designed to inhibit bacterial growth or to reduce the surface temperature of the turf in direct sun. These specialized infills cost more than basic silica but may be worth the investment in high-traffic pet areas or in climates where heat is a concern. Crumb rubber, made from recycled tires, is used primarily on sports fields and playgrounds where impact absorption is the priority; it is not commonly used in residential yards and is not recommended for pet areas.
How Much Infill Artificial Grass Needs, and Why
Infill quantity is specified in pounds per square foot, and it varies depending on the turf product and its intended use. A typical residential installation uses between 2 and 4 pounds of infill per square foot, with pet areas often at the higher end of that range. The infill amount is critical because too little creates several problems: the fibres will not stand upright, the turf will look thin and matted, the backing will receive more ultraviolet exposure and degrade faster, and drainage can actually worsen because there is not enough material to distribute water evenly across the base. Too much infill, conversely, can make the turf feel heavy and unnatural underfoot, and it can trap moisture if the base does not drain well.
Cheap installations often cut corners on infill by using less than the product specification calls for. This is one of the easiest shortcuts to hide initially, but it becomes obvious within a season as the turf loses its appearance and begins to fail. When you request a free estimate, ask the installer to specify the exact infill amount in writing, in pounds per square foot. This figure should match the turf manufacturer's recommendation for the product and the application. If an installer cannot or will not provide this number before the work begins, that is a warning sign.
What to Put Under Artificial Grass for Drainage
The layers beneath artificial grass follow a logical sequence, each one serving a specific purpose. The first step is always removal: existing lawn, dead turf, old roots and any debris must be cleared away. Once the ground is bare, excavation begins. The depth of excavation depends on the existing soil condition and the drainage requirements of your yard. On compacted clay or sand that does not drain well, excavation may be 4 to 6 inches deep. On sandy soil that already drains quickly, it may be shallower. The excavated area is then graded so that water runs away from the house and any structures like pools or patios, following the natural slope of the land or a slope created deliberately for drainage.
After grading, a weed barrier (a permeable landscape fabric) is laid down to prevent weeds from growing up through the turf and to slow the migration of sand from the base into the soil below. Next comes the base layer itself, typically 3 to 4 inches of decomposed granite or crushed base rock, compacted firmly in lifts using a plate compactor. This base is the foundation of the entire installation. It must be level, well-compacted, and free of voids or soft spots. For pet areas, play areas, or turf installed over concrete or hard surfaces, a draining underlay or cushioning pad may be added on top of the base and below the turf. This pad absorbs impact, provides additional drainage, and can help with odor control in pet areas. The turf itself is then laid and secured. On concrete or balconies, the turf is never glued flat to the slab; instead, a draining pad is installed first, and edge drainage is provided to prevent water from pooling beneath the surface.
Base Prep on Jacksonville Soil: Excavation, Base Rock and Compaction
Jacksonville's soil is predominantly sand and sandy clay, with a high water table that sits close to the surface in many neighborhoods. The flat terrain means water does not run off naturally; instead, it pools on the surface or percolates slowly downward. This is the environment that makes base preparation so critical. When existing lawn is removed, the exposed ground is often compacted from years of foot traffic, or it is loose fill that will settle unevenly once turf is installed. A proper base begins with excavation to remove the compacted layer and any poor-draining material, followed by grading that creates a gentle slope away from the house and any pool or patio areas. This slope need not be dramatic, but it must be deliberate.
The base material itself is typically 3 to 4 inches of decomposed granite or crushed limestone base rock, applied in lifts and compacted firmly with a plate compactor after each lift. Compaction is not optional. An uncompacted base will settle over time, creating low spots where water pools and where odor develops in pet areas. Settled bases also cause seams to separate and the turf surface to become uneven. In yards where water drains particularly poorly, the excavation may be deeper, the base thicker, or additional drainage solutions may be needed. If a property has a chronic water problem (persistent standing water, a high water table that reaches the surface, or poor drainage even after rain), drainage should be addressed before turf installation begins. If the drainage problem cannot be solved, we will decline the job rather than install turf that is destined to fail.
Artificial Grass Drainage and Underlay: Perforated vs Fully Permeable
Artificial grass turf itself is permeable, but the rate at which water passes through it depends on the backing. Turf with perforated backing has small holes punched through the backing layer, allowing water to drain into the base below. Fully permeable backing has no holes; instead, water flows through the backing material itself. The drainage rate of a turf product is specified in gallons per hour per square foot. A typical residential turf drains at 30 to 60 gallons per hour per square foot, which is fast enough for most applications. In pet areas and on properties that experience heavy downpours (common in Jacksonville during summer thunderstorms and tropical storm season), a faster-draining turf may be chosen, sometimes rated at 100 gallons per hour or higher.
However, even a fast-draining turf will fail on a base that does not drain. Water will back up and sit against the backing, creating soft spots, odor problems, and eventually mold or breakdown of the backing material itself. This is why base preparation and compaction are not separate from the drainage question; they are the foundation of it. Underlays and cushioning pads, used in pet areas and on hard surfaces like concrete or pavers, add another drainage layer. These pads are themselves permeable and are designed to move water laterally and downward into the base. When you evaluate a turf product, ask for the drainage rate in writing. When you evaluate a base design, ask how water is intended to move through the base and away from the property. A complete answer to that question is the mark of a thoughtful installation.
Seams, Nails, Edging and Power Brooming
The finishing details of an installation reveal the difference between a professional turf installer and a crew that simply lays material and leaves. Seams are the most visible detail. Where two pieces of turf meet, they are joined using seam tape and a waterproof adhesive applied to the underside of each piece. The grain of the turf (the direction the fibres lean) must be aligned so that the seam is not visible when you look across the installed area. A visible seam, where the grain changes direction or where the tape shows, indicates that alignment was not checked carefully. Seams that lift or separate indicate that the adhesive was not applied correctly, that the tape was not pressed firmly into place, or that the base shifted underneath.
Around the perimeter, the turf is secured with nails or staples spaced at intervals (typically 12 to 18 inches apart), driven through the backing into the base. Edges are finished with bender board (a flexible edging material) or another secured perimeter that holds the turf in place and creates a clean line. At transitions to pavers, pool decks, or concrete, the turf is cut tight to the hard surface so that no backing is exposed and water can drain away without pooling at the edge. After installation, the entire surface is power broomed, a process that stands the turf fibres upright and spreads the infill evenly across the surface. A properly finished installation has no visible seams, no lifted edges, clean lines at transitions, and infill distributed uniformly. These details take time and skill, and they are what you should see when the work is complete.
What a Written Turf Spec Should Include
Before any work begins, you should receive a written specification that describes exactly what will be installed and how. This specification is your protection and your reference if questions arise after installation. A complete turf spec includes the turf product name and fibre type (for example, polyethylene or nylon), the face weight in ounces per square yard, the pile height in millimeters, the backing type and its drainage rate in gallons per hour per square foot, the infill type and the amount in pounds per square foot, the base material and depth (typically 3 to 4 inches of compacted decomposed granite or base rock), the compaction method, whether a weed barrier will be installed, the seam joining method, the edging material and method, and the cleanup and haul-off plan. The spec should also state the workmanship warranty period, which covers the quality of the installation itself.
This written specification is not a sales document; it is a technical document that you can refer to during installation and afterward if any issue arises. It also allows you to compare proposals from different installers on an equal basis. Two installers may quote the same price, but if one specifies a 50-ounce face weight turf with 2 pounds of infill per square foot and the other specifies a 70-ounce product with 3.5 pounds of infill, they are not offering the same service. A written spec makes that difference clear. Before you commit to an installation, request a free estimate and ask for the specification in writing. Review the pricing page for typical ranges, but remember that every yard is different and the only accurate price is one measured on site and based on the specific conditions of your property.